What's Broke home

Whirlpool Washer Not Draining: Causes & Fixes

Whirlpool defines F21 and F02 on a front load washer as a long-drain fault: the machine took longer than expected to pump the water out. Whirlpool's own page for these two codes points at three things - a kinked or blocked drain hose, a clogged drainage system, and too much or non-HE detergent.

About a Whirlpool washer not draining

F9 E1 is the two-part form of the same Whirlpool long-drain fault, and Whirlpool's front load code index puts a number on it: drain times longer than expected, typically over eight minutes. Whirlpool's dedicated F9 E1 page states plainly that the washer is unable to drain correctly.

Whirlpool top load washers show the same fault as Ld or drn rather than F21. Whirlpool spells Ld out as a drain pump system problem - long drain, and its top load code index describes drn as the washer not draining properly, adding that this can sometimes be an installation problem rather than a broken part.

Sud, Sd and 5d are Whirlpool's excess-suds codes, and on a front load washer Whirlpool states directly that the washer cannot spin out water while the suds are there. The washer then runs a suds reduction routine on its own: it extends the rinse time, pauses tumbling and adds water, possibly several times.

An LF, Lo FL or F8 E1 code reads as long fill, not long drain, but Whirlpool's own LF page is largely a list of drain-hose faults, because a hose pushed too far into the standpipe, taped in, kinked or clogged makes the washer siphon - fill and drain at the same time - so it never reaches level. On a Whirlpool washer, LF can therefore be a drain installation fault wearing a fill code.

Before you work on your washer

  • Power: Unplug the washer or switch off its circuit breaker before removing panels or touching wiring.
  • Water: Turn off the water supply valve before disconnecting hoses or the inlet valve.
  • Heat: Water and the heating element can be hot right after a cycle; let the washer cool first.
  • Sharp debris: Wear gloves when reaching into the filter or sump; broken glass often collects there.
  • Stop: If you smell burning, see smoke or sparks, or find water near wiring, switch off the breaker and call a technician.
  • Mains wiring, the power cord, or the outlet is involved: Work on the washer's mains wiring, power cord, outlet, or house circuit is not a do-it-yourself repair. Do not open the cabinet to test or replace wiring, the drain pump's electrical connections, or the lid switch circuit.
  • Disconnect power before opening the washer: Unplug the washer or switch off its circuit breaker before removing the pump filter or access panel, before pulling the machine out, and before touching any wiring.
  • The tub or drum can still be spinning: A washer tub spins at very high speed and coasts after the cycle stops. Wait until the tub has completely stopped and the lid or door lock has released before reaching inside; never force a locked lid or door open.
  • Heavy appliance: get a second person: A washer is heavy and awkward, and it can tip when it is pulled out or tilted. Do not move, tilt, or lift it by yourself; have a second person help you.
  • Water left in the tub can be scalding hot: A tub left full after a hot or sanitize cycle holds very hot water. Let it cool for about an hour, then drain the water out through the emergency drain hose into a flat container before you open the pump filter.
  • Never mix bleach with another cleaner in the washer: Clearing an odour usually means running a cycle with chlorine bleach or a washer cleaner. Run one product at a time and rinse between them. Bleach plus ammonia, a toilet or drain cleaner, or an acid such as vinegar releases toxic gas in a small, closed laundry room.
  • Shut off the water supply before disconnecting hoses: Close both water faucets and drain the inlet hoses before you disconnect any hose or move the washer, or the hoses will still be under mains water pressure.
  • Hard and sharp objects collect in the pump filter: The drain pump filter and coin trap collect loose change, buttons, pins, and other hard items from pockets. Pull debris out carefully and wear gloves; anything broken or pointed in there can cut you.

Why your Whirlpool washer is not draining

  1. Drain hose kinked or clogged: A kinked or clogged drain hose is the first item on every Whirlpool drain page, from the F21 code article to the top load Ld list to the general not-draining guide, and Whirlpool's instruction is to straighten the hose for adequate water flow and clear any blockage from the hose, drainpipe or utility sink. Difficulty 2/5.
  2. Drain pump filter clogged (models that have one): Where a Whirlpool front load washer has a drain pump filter, Whirlpool puts it behind the bottom dispenser drawer on some models and at the front bottom of the cabinet generally, and says a filter clogged with dirt, lint or other items will stop the washer draining well. Whirlpool is explicit that only some models have a filter that can be cleaned. Difficulty 2/5.
  3. Drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe or taped in, so the washer siphons: How far the drain hose may sit inside the standpipe is a hard number on Whirlpool washers, and it differs by machine type: Whirlpool allows no more than 4.5 in (113 mm) of hose in the drainpipe or laundry tub on front load and All-In-One units, while its top load pages give 5 in (20.3 cm). Whirlpool's Ld page repeats the 4.5 in figure as 114 mm. Difficulty 2/5.
  4. Excess suds stopping the pump (Sud / Sd / 5d): Sud, Sd and 5d are Whirlpool's excess-suds codes, and on a front load washer Whirlpool states directly that the washer cannot spin out water while the suds are there. The washer then runs a suds reduction routine on its own: it extends the rinse time, pauses tumbling and adds water, possibly several times. Difficulty 1/5.
  5. Load unbalanced, overloaded, or packed too tightly: Whirlpool says an unbalanced or overloaded washer can prevent proper draining and spinning, and puts it in physical terms for top load owners: tightly packed loads may not allow the washer to spin correctly, leaving the load wetter than usual. Whirlpool's fix is to redistribute the items in the drum or reduce the load size. Difficulty 1/5.
  6. Standpipe higher or lower than Whirlpool's stated range: Whirlpool's drain troubleshooting pages give a standpipe window of 30 in (76.2 cm) minimum to 96 in (244 cm) maximum from the floor, but its error-code pages print a 39 in (99 cm) minimum for the same washers, so read the figure in your own model's manual before you rebuild the plumbing. The 96 in ceiling is consistent everywhere Whirlpool states it. Difficulty 3/5.
  7. Gentle, delicate or handwash cycle selected, so the spin is slow by design: Before suspecting hardware, check which Whirlpool cycle ran. Whirlpool states that gentle, delicate and handwash cycles use slow spins deliberately, to keep fabrics from stretching and wrinkling, and that slow spinning leaves more water in the load. Whirlpool's own way to clear the leftover water is to select RINSE & SPIN. Difficulty 1/5.
  8. Drain pump jammed, failed, or not being powered: Whirlpool's sequence for clearing an F21 or F02 is to press Pause/Cancel first; if the code stays, unplug the washer or disconnect the power for 5 minutes, restore power, select a cycle and press Start. Whirlpool's own page says that if the code comes back after all its checks are done, the machine needs service. Difficulty 4/5.
  9. Lid or door not closed and latched: Draining is one of the functions a Whirlpool top load high efficiency washer will not perform with the lid up. Whirlpool lists it outright: the lid must be closed for the washer to fill with water, wash, drain, rinse and spin the load, and the lid or door switch is what enforces that. Whirlpool's top load code index even gives a lid code for a lid left open. Difficulty 1/5.
  10. Drain holes inside the door seal clogged: Whirlpool names one drain restriction that most troubleshooting lists miss: the small drain holes moulded inside the door seal of a front load washer or All-In-One unit. Whirlpool says that if those holes clog, the machine may not drain well - so a washer with a clean filter and a clear hose can still hold water. Difficulty 1/5.
  11. Balance ring heard and mistaken for standing water: Not every Whirlpool washer that sounds full of water is. Whirlpool says water heard in the washer but not seen is normally the balance ring, a fluid-filled ring at the top of the tub, so if nothing is visible in the basket there may be no drain fault to chase at all. Difficulty 1/5.

Find the cause for your washer

Step-by-step checks for a Whirlpool washer not draining

Check whether a slow-spin Whirlpool cycle was selected

About 10 minutes

  1. Look at which cycle ran: Whirlpool's gentle, delicate and handwash cycles spin slowly on purpose and leave more water behind.
  2. If one of those ran, select RINSE & SPIN, which is Whirlpool's own way to pull the leftover water out.
  3. If a normal or heavy cycle ran and the tub is still full, this is not the cause; carry on.

Confirm the lid or door is actually latched

About 10 minutes

  1. Whirlpool states the lid must be closed for the washer to fill, wash, drain, rinse and spin, so check nothing is holding it up.
  2. On a top load high efficiency washer, look for a lid code or a lid-lock light and clear anything caught in the way.
  3. Close the lid firmly, restart the cycle, and watch whether the washer pumps out.
  4. Wait until the tub has completely stopped and the lock has released before reaching in; never force a locked lid.

Check how tightly the load is packed

About 10 minutes

  1. Look at the load in the drum: Whirlpool says a tightly packed load may stop the washer spinning correctly.
  2. Redistribute the items evenly, or take some out to reduce the load size, as Whirlpool instructs.
  3. Run RINSE & SPIN and watch whether the water goes now.

Check for excess suds and what went in the dispenser

About 15 minutes

  1. Look for foam on the water or in the door glass, and for a Sud, Sd or 5d code.
  2. Check the detergent: Whirlpool blames non-HE detergent, or more HE detergent than the maker recommends, for suds that stop the pump.
  3. Check the additives too: Whirlpool says thickened no-splash and easy-pour liquid chlorine bleach can create excess suds.
  4. If a Sud code is up, Whirlpool's instruction is to let the suds reduction routine finish rather than intervene.
  5. Do not pour another cleaner into a tub that still holds bleach; run one product at a time.

Separate the balance ring sound from real standing water

About 5 minutes

  1. Once the tub has stopped, look into the basket for water you can actually see.
  2. If you hear water but see none, Whirlpool says that is normally the balance ring, a fluid-filled ring at the top of the tub.
  3. If water is visibly standing in the basket, treat it as a real drain fault and keep going.

Read the code Whirlpool is showing you

About 5 minutes

  1. Look at the display or the status lights and write down exactly what is shown.
  2. F21, F02 or F9 E1 on a front load washer is Whirlpool's long-drain fault; F9 E1 is timed at roughly eight minutes.
  3. Ld or drn on a top load washer is the same long-drain fault, and Whirlpool says drn can be an installation problem.
  4. Sud, Sd or 5d is excess suds, which Whirlpool says stops the washer spinning the water out.
  5. LF, Lo FL or F8 E1 reads as long fill, but Whirlpool's LF page is mostly drain-hose faults that make the machine siphon.
  6. Whirlpool warns its code lists may not cover every code for your model, so check your Owner's Manual for anything else.

Drain the tub at the pump filter, then clear the door seal holes

About 35 minutes

  1. Unplug the washer or disconnect it from the power source first; this is step one of Whirlpool's own procedure.
  2. If the last cycle was hot or a sanitize cycle, let the water cool for about an hour before you open anything.
  3. Open the panel at the front bottom of the washer, or look behind the bottom dispenser drawer, which is where Whirlpool puts the filter on some models.
  4. Put a large flat container under the filter, release the black hose from its clip, pull the plug and let the water drain into the container.
  5. Take the filter out and pull the debris from it with gloves on; coins, pins and broken buttons collect in there.
  6. Wipe the inside of the door seal and clear the small drain holes moulded into it, which Whirlpool says can clog and stop the machine draining well.

Follow the drain hose end to end

About 25 minutes

  1. Unplug the washer or switch off its breaker, then ease the machine out from the wall with a second person.
  2. Follow the drain hose along its whole length and straighten any kink or crushed section, which is Whirlpool's first check on every drain page.
  3. Take the hose off and check inside it for a blockage, and clear the drainpipe or utility sink as well.
  4. Do not lift, tilt or walk the washer on your own.

Measure hose depth and standpipe height against Whirlpool's numbers

About 15 minutes

  1. Measure how much hose is inside the standpipe: Whirlpool's limit is 4.5 in (113 mm) on front load and All-In-One units, 5 in (20.3 cm) on top load.
  2. Check nothing is taped around the hose where it enters the drain; Whirlpool requires a gap so air can flow and the machine cannot siphon.
  3. Measure the top of the standpipe from the floor and compare it with your manual: Whirlpool's pages give a 30 in minimum on the troubleshooting guides and 39 in on the code pages, with 96 in as the ceiling.
  4. Note whether the standpipe is above 96 in, which Whirlpool says leaves the pump unable to lift the water out.

Check the pump itself for a jam, then for power

About 60 minutes

  1. Unplug the washer and get the standing water out before anything else.
  2. On a top load washer the pump sits on the right side underneath the machine; tilting it back to reach it needs two people.
  3. Check the pump inlet, the pump housing and the outlet hose for debris, and pull out anything jamming it.
  4. If the pump and its hoses are clear and it still does nothing, iFixit's guide points at the pump not receiving 120 volts from the control board - a live mains measurement, and the point to hand over to a technician.
  5. Do not test or open mains wiring, the cord, the outlet or the pump's electrical connections yourself.

How to fix a Whirlpool washer not draining

Clear the drain holes inside the door seal

About 15 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. With the washer unplugged, fold the door seal back and find the small drain holes moulded into it.
  2. Clear lint, hair and detergent residue out of each hole and wipe the whole seal, since Whirlpool says clogged holes stop the machine draining well.
  3. Leave the door ajar afterwards so the seal can dry.

Close and latch the lid or door properly

About 10 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. Clear anything caught under the lid or in the door, then close it firmly until it latches.
  2. Whirlpool states the lid must be closed for the washer to fill, wash, drain, rinse and spin, so a lid code or an unlatched lid explains a full tub on its own.
  3. Restart the cycle, or select RINSE & SPIN, and confirm the washer pumps out.
  4. Wait for the tub to stop completely before opening it again; do not force a locked lid.

Let the suds reduction routine finish, then fix the dose

About 60 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. With a Sud, Sd or 5d code up, let the washer continue: Whirlpool says it is running a suds reduction routine and may pause and add rinse water several times.
  2. Switch to HE detergent and measure it to the maker's dose for the soil level and load size, which is Whirlpool's instruction.
  3. Stop using thickened no-splash or easy-pour liquid chlorine bleach in the machine.
  4. Run the washer empty with regular liquid bleach products, or clean it with affresh washer cleaner, before the next load.
  5. Run one cleaning product at a time; never add another cleaner on top of bleach.

No repair needed: that sound is the balance ring

About 5 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. If you can hear water but see none in the basket, Whirlpool says the sound is normally the balance ring, a fluid-filled ring at the top of the tub.
  2. Nothing needs replacing; carry on using the washer normally.

Redistribute the load or take some of it out

About 20 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. Open the washer once the tub has stopped and spread the items evenly around the drum.
  2. Take items out to reduce the load size if it is packed tight, which Whirlpool says can stop the washer spinning correctly.
  3. Run RINSE & SPIN and check the load comes out at its usual wetness.

Run RINSE & SPIN, then pick a higher spin speed

About 25 minutes · Difficulty 1/5

  1. Select RINSE & SPIN to pull the water out, which is Whirlpool's own instruction for a load left wet.
  2. For the next wash, choose a cycle with a higher spin speed rather than gentle, delicate or handwash, which Whirlpool says spin slowly by design.
  3. Arrange the load evenly first so the washer can hold the higher spin.

Clean the drain pump filter the way Whirlpool documents it

About 35 minutes · Difficulty 2/5

  1. Unplug the washer or disconnect it from the power source - Whirlpool's step one.
  2. Let hot water cool for about an hour if the last cycle was hot or a sanitize cycle.
  3. Put a large flat container under the filter, release the black hose from its clip, remove the plug, and drain the water into the container.
  4. Unscrew the filter, pull the debris out with gloves on, rinse it and refit it firmly so it does not leak.
  5. Repeat every few months, or every 6 months on an All-In-One unit, which is Whirlpool's own interval.
  6. If your model has no accessible filter, skip to the pump resolution instead of forcing a panel.

Pull the hose back out of the standpipe and restore the air gap

About 20 minutes · Difficulty 2/5

  1. Pull the drain hose back until no more than 4.5 in (113 mm) sits inside the drainpipe on a front load or All-In-One unit, or 5 in (20.3 cm) on a top load washer.
  2. Strip off any tape sealing the hose into the drain: Whirlpool wants the hose loose yet secure, with a gap for air to flow through.
  3. Secure the hose so it cannot slide back down, then run a cycle and watch whether the tub now empties and stays empty.
  4. If the washer had also been showing LF, Lo FL or F8 E1, check whether that clears too - Whirlpool ties those to the same siphoning.

Straighten and clear the drain hose

About 30 minutes · Difficulty 2/5

  1. With the washer unplugged and pulled out, straighten every kink and free the hose from anything crushing it against the wall.
  2. Whirlpool's wording is to straighten the hose for adequate water flow, so leave it with a smooth run rather than a tight bend.
  3. Take the hose off and clear any blockage inside it, and clear the drainpipe or utility sink too.
  4. Reconnect, restore power, and run RINSE & SPIN to confirm the tub empties.

When to call a technician about a Whirlpool washer not draining

  • Bring the standpipe height into Whirlpool's range
  • Get the drain pump tested and replaced

Sources

  1. GE Appliance - Circuit Breaker Trips, GE Appliances (retrieved 2026-09-21)
  2. How to Troubleshoot a Whirlpool Top-Load Washing Machine That Won't Drain, iFixit (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  3. Washing Machine Not Draining - iFixit Troubleshooting, iFixit (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  4. LG Washer - How to Clean the Drain Pump Filter, LG Electronics USA (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  5. Samsung washing machine will not drain, Samsung Electronics America (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  6. Ammonia Recalled by OnLine Packaging Due to Chemical Hazard, U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (retrieved 2026-09-22)
  7. GE Recalls Front-Load Washers Due to Fire and Shock Hazards, U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  8. Not Draining - All-In-One Washer Dryer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  9. Not Draining - Washer (Stacked Laundry Center), Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  10. Not Draining - Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  11. F9 E1 - Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  12. SUD or Sd - Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  13. Removing Odors or Smells - Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-22)
  14. Cleaning the Pump Filter - Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  15. Moving a Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  16. Error Codes in Front Load Washers, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  17. Error Codes in Top Load HE Washers, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  18. Lid Locking on a Top Load High Efficiency Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  19. Top Load Washer not Draining, not Spinning, and/or Leaving Wet Loads, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  20. Washer Not Draining or Spinning? Troubleshooting Guide, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  21. What does the "SUD" or "SD" Error Code mean, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  22. What is an F21 or F02 Error Code on a Front Load Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  23. Properly Moving the Washer - Washer, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-20)
  24. Not Draining - Washer (Top Load), Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  25. Ld - Error Code, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  26. LF - Error Code, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)
  27. Sd or 5d - Error Code, Whirlpool Corporation (retrieved 2026-09-26)

Last updated September 29, 2026 · facts last verified September 26, 2026 · How we source and verify

Guidance only; follow your appliance manual and local codes. If anything looks unsafe, stop and call a qualified technician. Safety disclaimer